Pavè, Breakfast in Milan

Taking direction from the recent New York Times article, Angela and I ventured out to the north/northeast side of Milan Sunday morning to Pavè, a pasticceria, or bakery of sorts, for a little breakfast.

Before delving into the deliciousness, it's important to note that for Italians the definition of breakfast items is quite different from what an American might classify as standard fare. As an American I grew up on cereal, bacon and eggs, or pancakes and such. A donut or croissant was a rare treat, saved for special occasions or the odd weekend. It was never a habitual delight. 

In Italy though, the brioche or sweet pastry is the norm. It's often labeled "prima colazione" or "first breakfast," though I've never really determined what or when the "second breakfast" would be.

Breakfasts Around the World

But, I do imagine eating something beyond the pastry is necessary because it's not filling enough to sustain me until lunch. 

With that in mind, we arrived at Pavè to a large case of glistening pastries set amongst a rustic, shabby chic designed space. Everything in the case is nicely labeled for easy identification. The English speaker in me is thankful for this, as I can easily read in Italian and understand, but can not always hear and understand it. The space itself is small, divided over two levels, and full of mixed and matched chairs and tables. 

Grab and table and a server will drop off a menu, which, by the way, is also in both Italian and English, and clearly translated by someone with some solid English language skills. The translations are clear and colloquial, and not off-putting, as some direct English translations at restaurants often are. 

We each had a cappuccino and we ordered three pastries, thinking that wasn't pushing the limits too far for one visit!

Since we wanted to try EVERYTHING!

Clockwise from top left: Sfogliatina all crema, Kipfel alle mandorle, and a yummy cappuccino!

Each of the pastries was delicious in its own way, but the cinnamon roll with raisins was our favorite of the three. 

the kipfel (back) and girella uvetta e canella (front)

The cappuccino was delightful and only required one sugar, which for me, is way less than what I often have to pour into such a beverage. 

Do you think one day I'll ever manage to drink an espresso like an Italian?

For two cappuccinos and three brioche, plus table service, we spent only 10 euro. Fair prices in my opinion. 

There was a small group of people waiting for a place to sit as we were leaving. One of their employees was keeping tabs by running a small waitlist to help accommodate everyone. 

Perhaps a result of their recent nod in a major publication, eh?

Pavè can be found at Via Felice Casati 27, just a few blocks from the Via Vittorio Veneto stop on the 9 tram line. 

They also serve lunch and offer aperitivo. 

One thing's for sure...

I'll be back. 

Milan in the News

Milan's been getting quite a bit of buzz lately in the news.

With the EXPO starting in May, and running for 184 days, Milan is apparently the 'place to be!'

Here are some of the recent news stories about the city where I reside.

Milan was listed as #1 of the NYTimes 52 Places to Go in 2015.

#1.

So, why aren't you here visiting me?

Have 36 hours to spend in Milan? The New York Times also published a new itinerary for your time here just this month. I've been to a couple of places on their list, but there's still some work to do!

a snippet from the website of un posto, one of the places on the list

Here is the video associated with the NYTimes article.

It's a beautiful city, but one that I think you have to work to love a bit.

It's not Florence, with its certain, yet indescribable feelings of art, history, culture and emotion.

It's not Rome, with its connections to the beginnings of the Roman Empire and to the Italian Renassiance.

But, it's where I live.

It's where I work.

It's where I'm home.

(At least for now!)

Finding the Hidden Secrets of Bologna

I grew up thinking I knew all about Italian food.

You know, the food Americans think is Italian.

And, now living here I know exactly how wrong those thoughts are.

Case in point. Going to Bologna and getting a quintessential Italian bowl of pasta that looks little like what an American would identify as spaghetti bolognese.

tagliatelle con ragu

The good news? The real stuff is SO. MUCH. BETTER.

I checked out the city of Bologna for the first time this weekend. A little advance research led me to discover that it is most well known for its food.

Enter high expectations for lunch.

With my colleague, Peggy, I caught the fast train to Bologna Saturday morning, scooping up TrenItalia's winter Saturday's 2 for 1 deal. It's only an hour away, so it's an easy trip from Milan.

This is the Basilica San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore, the main square in the center of the town. A couple of interesting facts about this church. One, you clearly notice the outside. They began building it of marble, but never finished the facade. The architect had plans to build a church so grand it would overshadow St. Peter's in Rome. Apparently, Pope Pius IV put the kibosh on that idea.

On the interior of the church is a zodiac sundial on the floor. I was expecting something circular, and thank goodness for Peggy, otherwise I would have completely missed this long diagonal line. It was originally created to settle a dispute about whether the earth moved around the sun, or vice versa. Only solar movement was noted. #surprisesurprise

I had found a lot of great information researching, including some secrets of Bologna, which were new to Peggy, even though she's been to visit at least six times!

Bologna is well known, and on the UNESCO World Heritage List, for its many porticoes and archways. It was interesting to read that the building of many of the porticoes and rooms above them began as a need to find housing for many students that arrived in Bologna when the university was started. Bologna is home to Europe's oldest university.

Apparently, Bologna used to be home to a myriad of towers, placed throughout the city. Now, two towers prominently remain, though remnants of up to twenty may still exist. The taller of the two towers, the Asinelli, is 97.2 m tall and the top can be reached by climbing nearly 500 stairs.

We took a pass on the stair climbing this time around.

Though it might have been useful in working off the lunch that was to come.

The neighboring smaller tower, the Garisenda, is like the second coming of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but in square. In the 1300's the lean had become so significant the tower was cut off, giving it the nickname of the 'chopped tower'.

The taller of Bologna's two main towers.

Peggy and I also hunted down a small area known as the 'whispering walls' where you can hear each other talk from across the room. I was suspicious, but it definitely worked. We could quietly say something into the corner and then be heard by each other across the room. This 'site' was definitely not marked and took us a few minutes to figure out. Only when we saw some teenagers sneak into the corners did we figure it out. 

Want to find this secret? 

Peggy in her corner!

We also set out to find this little window below, cut into a wall. It gives you a quick peek into a canal that runs through Bologna. It's called 'piccola venezia'...which means 'little Venice.'

a surprising view!

On Bologna with Love, I found a recommendation for Trattoria del Rosso. It's conveniently located right around the corner from the cute little window opening above.

And we had an amazing lunch there.

So go. On an empty stomach.

And EAT!

tortelloni stuffed with ricotta, with a sage and butter sauce

During the afternoon, we just wandered about...looking for a few other things I had on my list. A couple were closed for 'pausa' (boo!) and others seem to not exist any longer. : (

But, still found a few more gems worthy of sharing.

Found this guy on the top of a cemetery fence

I wonder if a salon resides behind this tapparelle.

Came across this bubble maker twice during our day and the reactions of the
bambini were priceless...and his bubbles were amazing.

It was a great day spent in Bologna. The weather was warm, the sun was shining, and Bologna gained a new fan: me!

Have you been to Bologna? Or now want to go? I hope so! I'd love to hear from you in the comments!


Other useful links:
Italy Project 365
Bologna day trip resources

Winter Holidays

Another holiday season has come and gone.

The jet lag has passed. (Thank goodness!)

School is back in full swing and we are already counting down to our February vacations.

But, first, I want to share a few highlights of my time at home.

There's some beautiful sights to be seen as you fly over the Alps and out of Italy.

Our Christmas tree, Ruby and Elf on tv...a good night all together.

A few rounds of Sequence were played.

My brother in law, Neal, finally sported his calf warmers that I bought him in Germany!

Some great friends passed through Savannah on their way home from Disney World. 

I love these ladies!
Gettin' our photo pose on!

Bubble lights have been adorning trees in our family for as long as I can remember. My Aunt Joni always had them on her tree when I was growing up. These are at the end of their life so our tree may be without bubble lights for awhile. 

With a new camera lens in hand (a nice 18-200 mm zoom lens) I headed out in downtown Savannah.

Savannah's square and lovely live oak trees

I like to photograph people, but haven't worked up the nerve yet to approach them and ask permission
when you're directly in their face. So, you get a few shots from behind!

Across the Savannah River to the Westin and their dock

the fountain in Forsyth Park

It was a nice enough day (in January!) to relax in the park. 

Again, shooting from behind!

Cool sunrises and sunsets are frequent when you make transatlantic flights!

It's always so nice to spend time with my family and friends over the holidays. I'm blessed to be able to fly home every year. As always, thanks to everyone who made time in their busy holiday schedule to get together and include me in their lives.

The next time I'm home Melissa is getting married!

How is this possible? (I can't possibly be old enough to have a niece getting married!)

What were the highlights of your holidays?